Wet rot is decay in timber that has stayed damp for a long time, usually because of a leak, penetrating damp, condensation or a damp floor. It stays where the wet is and does not travel through masonry the way dry rot can. The repair is to stop the moisture, cut out timber that has lost its strength, fit new treated timber and make good the plaster, floor or joinery around it.
What is wet rot?
“Wet rot” is a general name for several wood-decaying fungi that need timber to be persistently wet before they can grow. Dry, ventilated timber in a heated home does not rot. Once wood is kept damp for months by a dripping pipe, a wet wall or water sitting on a sill, fungal decay starts to break down its fibres. The wood darkens, softens, shrinks and cracks, often into small cubes or long splits along the grain, and eventually loses its strength.
The important point is that wet rot is a symptom. Replace the timber without fixing the moisture and the new wood will go the same way. That is why our approach to wet rot sits within our wider damp and mould treatment in Liverpool: the cause comes first, the joinery second.
Where do we find wet rot in Liverpool homes?
- Skirting boardsLow-level timber against a damp wall, often on a solid 9-inch brick wall in an older terrace or where a damp proof course has been bridged.
- Floorboards and joist endsBathroom floors around the WC, bath or shower where a slow leak has soaked in, and joist ends built into damp external walls.
- Window frames and sillsTimber windows where paint has failed, water sits on the sill or condensation runs down the glass every winter morning.
- Door frames and thresholdsBack doors and kitchen doors where splashback, poor drainage or raised ground keeps the bottom of the frame wet.
- Under kitchen units and sinksPlinths and base boards that have sat on a wet floor or under a weeping waste pipe.
- Roof and loft timbersRafters, joists or sarking near a long-standing roof leak or a blocked gutter. We identify these; roof repairs themselves may need a roofer.
Signs of wet rot
- Timber that feels soft or spongy when pressed, or where a screwdriver goes in with little effort.
- Darkened wood, often with cracking along or across the grain.
- Paint that blisters or flakes on window frames and skirting, with soft wood underneath.
- Floorboards that bounce, dip or feel uneven, especially near a bath, shower or toilet.
- A damp, musty smell in one area, sometimes with mould on nearby walls.
Many of these signs can also point to dry rot, woodworm or simple old age, so it is worth having them looked at before anything is pulled out. If you see white, cotton-wool-like growth, grey strands or rust-coloured dust, read our dry rot treatment page as well, because the approach is different.
Wet rot or dry rot: what is the difference?
| Wet rot | Dry rot | |
|---|---|---|
| Moisture needed | Timber kept very wet | Damp timber; can then spread to drier wood |
| Spread | Stays in the wet area | Can send strands through masonry to reach new timber |
| Typical look | Dark, soft, cracked wood; little visible fungus | White cotton-wool growth, grey strands, rust-coloured spore dust |
| Usual extent of work | Local: cut out and replace affected timber | Often more opening up to find the full extent |
How we repair wet rot
- Questions on the phone. We ask where the soft timber is, how long you have noticed it, whether there has been a leak, and whether the home is owned or rented.
- Inspection. We probe the timber, take moisture readings on the wood (where moisture meters are most reliable), look at nearby walls and floors, and check plumbing, sills, ground levels and gutters for the water source.
- Explaining the cause. We tell you in plain English what is keeping the timber wet and how far the decay seems to go, then give a written quote.
- Stopping the moisture. That might mean repairing a leak, dealing with penetrating damp, improving ventilation under a floor or reducing condensation. Some outside defects, such as roof leaks, may need a roofer or builder.
- Cutting out and replacing. Decayed timber is removed back to sound wood and replaced with new preservative-treated timber. Sound timber nearby may be treated as a precaution where it makes sense.
- Making good. Plaster, flooring, skirting or joinery is reinstated so the room is usable, and we can leave written notes with photos.
Cutting out structural timbers, such as joists or lintels, needs temporary support and should not be attempted as a DIY job. If a floor feels unsafe, keep weight off it and call a professional. In older homes, textured ceiling coatings or old boards near the work may contain asbestos and must be tested before they are disturbed.
Why does wet rot appear in older Liverpool houses?
Large parts of the city are Victorian and Edwardian brick terraces with solid walls and suspended timber ground floors. Joist ends sit in the external walls, and skirting boards run along brickwork that can take on water from leaking gutters, eroded pointing or a damp proof course hidden behind raised paths. Bathrooms in back extensions often sit on cold outside walls, and years of shower water creeping under worn sealant is a common cause of rotten boards around baths. In streets of older terraces such as those in Anfield and Walton, rot linked to bathroom leaks and damp walls is a typical finding. On the coast, wind-driven rain on exposed elevations in places like Wallasey can keep window timber wet for long spells.
What affects the cost of a wet rot repair?
We do not quote prices without seeing the job, because every repair is different. The main factors are how much timber has decayed, whether it is structural (joists, lintels) or decorative (skirting, architrave), access (lifting floors, removing kitchen units or bathroom fittings), what is needed to stop the moisture, and how much plaster and decoration must be reinstated. Our damp and mould cost guide explains these factors in more detail.
When should you call about soft or rotten timber?
Call when timber feels soft, when floorboards start to give, or when you find rot during other work. Wet rot spreads only as far as the moisture, so a prompt repair usually keeps the job small. If you are buying a home and a surveyor has flagged rot, our mortgage damp and timber reports page explains what we can look at. As a local damp specialist, we will tell you honestly if the timber is sound and only the paint has failed.
Soft timber or rotten floorboards?
Call 07777 659786 or leave your details. Tell us where the rot is, whether there has been a leak and whether the home is rented, and we will call you back to arrange a visit.
Frequently asked questions
Does wet rot spread to other parts of the house?
Not in the way dry rot can. Wet rot needs timber to stay wet, so it is limited to the damp area. If several areas are affected, there is usually more than one source of moisture, or one leak travelling further than you might expect. Once the moisture is stopped and the timber dries, wet rot stops growing.
Can wet rot be treated without replacing the timber?
If the decay is very shallow and the timber is still strong, drying it out, treating it and filling with a suitable repair system can sometimes work on joinery such as window frames. Where the wood has lost strength, it needs cutting out and replacing. We probe the timber and tell you which applies.
Is wet rot dangerous?
Rot in skirting or window frames is mainly a repair and appearance problem. Rot in floor joists, lintels or roof timbers can weaken the structure, so floors may feel springy or sag. If a floor feels unsafe, keep weight off it and get it checked. The mould and damp that often come with rot can also affect health; speak to your GP about symptoms.
Who pays for wet rot in a rented home?
Landlords are generally responsible for repairs to the structure and exterior, which often covers the leaks and damp that cause rot. Tenants should report it in writing. We can give landlords and agents written notes with photos; see our landlord damp and mould page. For legal questions, contact the council or Shelter.
How long does a wet rot repair take?
A length of skirting or a small section of floor is often a day’s work once the moisture source is dealt with. Larger repairs involving joists, kitchens or bathrooms can take several days. Walls that were wet may need weeks to dry before final decoration. We give you a realistic timeline after the inspection.